The familiar hum of activity at Portsmouth Square has been silenced, at least temporarily. For decades, this urban oasis in the heart of Chinatown has been a daily refuge for Asian seniors, a place to socialize, play games, and share stories. But with the commencement of a long-awaited renovationthe community is now searching for new places to congregate.
The Portsmouth Square Improvement Projecta $73 million initiative, promises to enhance the square with a new community clubhouse, expanded play areas, and flexible event spaces. However, the closure of the square for the next two years has left its regulars in a state of transition. “They say they are going to Washington Square,” remarked a middle-aged man, referring to the square in North Beach. But for many, this new location feels too distant.
The Search for New Gathering Spots
The sudden absence of Portsmouth Square has disrupted the daily routines of many seniors. One man, who had just completed a six-day work stretch, found himself sitting on a cardboard box outside the fenced-off square, unsure of where to go next. “In Chinatown there was nowhere else to go — only here,” he lamented. His plan was simple: “I’ll just wait a few days and go wherever everyone else is going.”
While some seniors are considering mahjong parlors, the cost of playing there poses a challenge. Others are looking towards nearby parks such as St. Mary’s Square, Willie “Woo Woo” Wong Playground, Betty Ann Ong Recreation Center, and Woh Hei Yuen Playground. However, the familiarity and convenience of Portsmouth Square are hard to replace.
The Challenge of Change
The seniors of Portsmouth Square are creatures of habit, according to Lily Lo, founder of BeChinatown. Many only speak Cantonese or Toisanese and are illiterate, relying on muscle memory to navigate their daily routines. Portsmouth Square has been a place of safety and community, where friends gather and dance on warm summer nights. “It was where all their friends went,” Lo explained, highlighting the square’s unique role in the community.
Edward Siu, president of the Chinatown Merchants United Association, noted that the seniors are resourceful and will likely find new places to gather. “They are not gonna just stay at home,” he said. However, predicting exactly where they will go is challenging. “They will split,” Siu predicted, suggesting that the community might disperse to various locations, including open spaces above the Chinatown-Rose Pak Station and impromptu games in car-free alleys.
The Future of Portsmouth Square
The Portsmouth Square Improvement Project aims to create a more inclusive and functional space for the community. The new 8,500 square foot community clubhouse and expanded play areas promise to enhance the square’s role as a social hub. However, the immediate challenge is helping the seniors adapt to the changes. “Right now we are looking for that person,” Siu said, referring to a small-time entrepreneur who sets up tables for low-stakes gambling at the square. Finding this individual could provide insights into where the seniors might go next.
As the community navigates this period of transition, the spirit of Portsmouth Square endures. The seniors’ resilience and adaptability are a testament to their strong sense of community and shared history. While the square undergoes its transformation, the heart of Chinatown continues to beat, finding new rhythms and new places to call home.