The vibrant coastal city of San Diego is renowned for its fresh seafood and the journey from ocean to plate is a testament to the dedication of local fishermen and chefs. This story unfolds with the arrival of a day’s catch at Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub in Oceanside, where the catch of the day becomes a culinary masterpiece.
On a typical Wednesday, the restaurant buzzes with anticipation as fisherman Shane Volberding delivers his latest haul. The day begins with Volberding setting out to sea on Tuesday, pulling in a diverse catch of mackerelyellowtail and other prized fish. By noon the next day, his van, packed with coolers of ice and fish, arrives at Wrench and Rodent, ready to supply the kitchen with the freshest ingredients.
Sustainable Fishing and Ultra-Fresh Seafood
The partnership between Volberding and chef Davin Waite exemplifies the sustainable practices that define San Diego’s seafood industry. Waite, the owner and head chef of Wrench and Rodent, emphasizes the importance of responsible harvesting and marine science. “We’re very, very lucky to have this abundance of fish and people who harvest it responsibly,” Waite notes.
Volberding’s catch is not only fresh but also prepared using the ikejime method, a Japanese process that instantly kills the fish to preserve its quality. This meticulous approach ensures that the seafood reaches the restaurant in optimal condition. The mackerel, sold at $8 per pound, is transformed into sushi orders ranging from $6 to $13, showcasing the value of ultra-fresh ingredients.
The Art of Seafood Preparation
Inside the restaurant, Waite and his brother, chef de cuisine Loren Waite begin the intricate process of preparing the day’s catch. The Aji, or Spanish mackerel, is sliced into fillets and texturized to achieve the buttery consistency that sushi enthusiasts crave. This painstaking process, humorously referred to as “suffering” by Loren Waite, highlights the dedication to quality.
The Pacific mackerel undergoes a different treatment, lightly pickled to enhance its flavor. “A lot of people think mackerel is fishy, but it’s not the fish itself, but the process that’s used to preserve it,” explains Davin Waite. “So you salt and vinegar it.” This careful preparation ensures that each dish showcases the natural flavors of the fish.
Dry-Aging: A Unique Technique
One of the standout features of Wrench and Rodent is its use of a dry ager a temperature and humidity-controlled cabinet typically used for beef. Waite employs this technique to refine the texture and flavor of fatty fish like yellowtail. The enzymatic aging process reduces water content and concentrates the umami flavor, but timing is crucial. “You really have to know when that animal was harvested,” Waite emphasizes.
Volberding’s delivery also includes six yellowtails, a favorite among sushi diners. Waite already has one yellowtail in the dry ager, demonstrating the restaurant’s commitment to innovative preparations. The dry-aging process not only improves the taste and texture but also extends the fish’s longevity, ensuring that every bite is a delight.
Supporting Local Businesses
After supplying Wrench and Rodent, Volberding continues his deliveries to other local restaurants, including Shoots Fish & Beer in Carlsbad. Here, chef de cuisine Steven Williamson receives three yellowtails, each costing about $220. The arrival of 50 pounds of yellowtail influences the day’s menu, featuring dishes like tostadas de ceviche and aguachile, both priced at about $18.
Williamson quickly processes the fish, dicing portions and tossing them with lime juice and spices. He then arranges slices of yellowtail on a plate, dousing them with green chile sauce and garnishing with avocado, onions, and cilantro. The relationship between local fishermen and restaurants is mutually beneficial, supporting both the seafood industry and the culinary scene.
“We love to support a local business and buy from them rather than buying from the huge companies, so they support us,” Williamson says. This collaboration ensures that the freshest catch from the Pacific ends up on the plates of San Diego diners, celebrating the city’s rich seafood heritage.
